Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Day 1 - Arrived safely

My computer clock says it is 3:05 am Pacific time, but the day is just winding down here in Hanoi. Well, the sun has gone down, but the roar of motorcycle engines and constant honking are still going on. It is just after 6 pm on Tuesday, Jan. 12.

The flight (on EVA Airlines) was not so bad - I actually got some sleep, was served two meals, and there were no crying babies - which is pretty remarkable for a 13+ hour flight. A three hour layover in Taipei allowed me to get some steps in on my pedometer. A fascinating airport, with flights coming in from all over the world, and a parade of many cultures streaming past me. Along the way I found an indoor flower garden, a children's play area, and three prayer rooms - Muslim, Buddhist, and Christian. Barb, you would like the prayer room - for some reason, I could hear your voice appreciating its presence.

3 hours more on the flight to Hanoi, a breeze getting through customs (thank goodness for a visa!), a longer wait for my luggage, and then out to the main airport to be greeted by Dashal and her boyfriend, Nick Schrank. It is so good to see them.

A taxi ride into the city took about 40 minutes. Hanoi lies right in the Red River delta - as I flew over the area I could see plenty of irrigation ditches and flooded rice paddies surrounding the city. On the ground, though, it looks pretty dusty. An overcast day, and cold for Hanoi, it feels like a mild winter day in Olympia. My first impression of Hanoi driving in was old, tired, grimy buildings contrasting with wild, vibrant, moving people - on scooters and motorcycles, bicycles and cars, going in all sorts of directions with little concern for what side of the road they are on. Brought back memories of traffic in Ibadan, Nigeria when I was growing up. The taxi brought us to the end of a street that is next to the Swedish and the Bulgarian embassies. Then we walked down some twisting alleyways (2nd photo), past many gated front doors, to Dashal & Nick's home (3rd photo). Quite a find, they are renting this five story house that has one main room on each floor, with either a bathroom or laundry room on the backside of the staircase. Tall ceilings, lots of dark wood on the floor, around the windows, beautiful banister on the staircase. My room is on the fourth floor - I should get in more steps for sure!

After depositing my suitcase, we went back out to a side walk "restaurant" for noodle soup. Mind you, this is quite the adventure, dodging the traffic and the other pedestrians. When one wants to cross the street, it's much like a dance - one has to be aware of which way the scooters are leaning to decide whether to stop or move forward. The restaurant is really just a small room completely open to the street with a few tables and the soup is cooked over charcoal pots. It really helps to have grown up in Africa - cleanliness is a relative concept. The soup was good, the tepid tea I could pass on (it is served everywhere), and I suspect the glasses were just rinsed out from the previous use - overall, a great lunch! Then Nick had to go to work (teaching English), so Dashal and I went to a cafe for coffee. This place was a little more upscale, the coffee was thick, rich and wonderful. While sitting there, we noticed a massage place across the street. Dashal had been there before and recommended it. So we moved across the street and had all the kinks of a long airplane ride massaged right out of me. I think it was $6 apiece, for over an hour massage.

We made our way home via a pastry "restaurant" (another open room with little tables), a sticky rice street vendor, and a fruit stand. As I write this, I hear the sounds of all the families home for the evening. Someone is clanging a glass jar for some reason, kids are yelling, people are laughing, scooters are roaring & honking through the alleys, dogs barking - a noisy, bustling, lively neighborhood. There sounds like a party of teenagers next door - maybe that's where the clanging is coming from? I think ear plugs are a good idea tonight!

I'm fading fast, so I will post a few photos and crawl into bed. Over 12,000 steps (6 miles). Tomorrow's a whole new adventure!

3 comments:

  1. wow, sounds like a great start to the 2010 vietnam adventure. wish wish wish i was there with you (even if you don't!). lots of love, a

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  2. Adrianne - I would love to have you here - all of you. I do wonder, though, how Maggie would respond to the chaotic nature of the city - it is pretty intense!

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  3. Sounds like a lot of fun! I am glad your trip is going well. It is neat to read of your adventures. maria

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